Frank Bruni's New York Times review of Del Posto, the new love child in the Batali/Bastianich clan, came out today. It was an interesting read overall, but I'm writing here, because this little number caught my eye:
Mr. Batali's love of offal finds expression in pici, a sort of fat Tuscan spaghetti, with coxcombs, chicken livers, duck testicles and, for conventional decadence, black truffles. Less predictably, agnolotti of veal, pancetta, chicken, mortadella and Parmesan are served slightly crunchy and unsauced, to be plucked and eaten with your fingers.Sorry. Was that duck
testicles? And
coxcombs?
I'm thinking back to my days of waiting tables. One night at An American Place the chef served up frog legs as a special. People questioned me.
diner: Did you just say "Frog Legs"?
me: Yes, sir.
diner: Like,
legs? From a
frog? Like, ribbit?
me: Yes. Sir.
Frog. Legs. Big in France. Looks like canned tuna, tastes (surprise!) like chicken. Maybe a little risky for your average diner, but nothing too crazy.
But
testicles? Those poor waiters. Mario Balali, you're kind of a bastard for this one. Did it ever cross your mind that the waiters are going to have to field jokes about DUCK BALLS from your customers?! And COXcombs? Ok, I'm taking it to the locker room on this one, but I can smell the annoying Foodie chortles from here, their piggish pink fingers pointing and laughing.
That's just cruel.